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Untourist Guide to Prague

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Our travelling content creator Filipa reports on her off-the-beaten-path discoveries in Prague.

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Let’s talk about one of my favourite stops on my travels with Secret City Trails: I’m grateful I met some amazing people in the hostel I stayed in Prague and they turned out to be fantastic companions for exploring this amazing city. From all the cities I’ve been to, Prague is for sure one of those with a remarkable character. There is art everywhere you go, sometimes in the most unusual places; from quirky detailed statues and sculptures of the people who helped to shape the city, to surprising street music. Any curious sculpture enthusiast or a local legends collector, like myself, will have the best of times just walking around the city. Let me share one of things I’ve learnt: did you know that the local legend says that if you use a flash while taking a picture of Anna Chromy’s spooky IL COMMENDATORE statue, you’ll see that an image of a face appears in the photo?! I dare you to try it… Also, there’s a lot of traditional beliefs related to one wall in the Wallenstein Palace Garden; I’ll tell you more about it later in this post. 

Here are my top recommendations for an alternative and a little less busy discovery trail in Prague; hopefully I’ll have you covered if you’re looking for something different to add to your upcoming Prague itinerary, even if you visited Prague before. As always, I played city discovery games to get to know the city like a local.

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Our favourite non-touristy things to see and do in Prague

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Visit the baroque Wallenstein Palace to find the massive Dripstone Wall, known as “The Grotto”, with around 500 years of existence. I’ve never found anything like it on any of my trips!… It’s an artificial wall that in itself is a special art piece; you can find animals (I found a lion and snake!), monsters and distorted faces hidden in the wall’s recesses. A legend has it that if one stares at the wall for a long time, they can find hidden passageways through the interior of the wall so I like to believe that next time I visit Prague I would be able to see it!… 

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You already understand that statue and sculpture hunting are a thing in Prague 😊 The Penguins standing along the shore of the Vltava River were made by The Cracking Art Group, that focuses on making colourful creations in urban areas around the city using recyclable plastic. These 34 yellow penguins made of plastic bottles aim to spread an important message about the massive use of plastic and climate change.

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Inside the Kampa Park there are David Cerny’s Giant bronze faceless babies. And yes, they are as weird as they seemed by my description, but also brilliant. Their irreverent creator, a Czech born sculptor and artist, has over ten different sculptures in and around Prague, including Metamorphosis (that I personally loved; read about it next) and the Man Hanging Out, which is a representation of the famous psychologist Sigmund Freud.[/et_pb_blurb][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_3,1_3,1_3″ admin_label=”Part 3″ _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” collapsed=”off” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_3″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https://stg-secretcitytrails-staging.kinsta.cloud/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/kopf.jpg” admin_label=”head” _builder_version=”4.16″ z_index_tablet=”500″ box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_blurb title=”Find a moving head in the middle of the city” admin_label=”Moving head” _builder_version=”4.16″ header_font=”Ubuntu||||||||” header_font_size=”18px” header_line_height=”1.4em” body_font=”Ubuntu|300|||||||” z_index_tablet=”500″ header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” global_colors_info=”{}”]I’ve to highlight one of my favourite discoveries in Prague! David Cerny’s fascinating “moving head”, an artwork named Metamorphosis (or The Head of Franz Kafka), is certainly something you don’t want to miss! It is made of around 40 moving layers that rotate 360 degrees and occasionally align, forming a human giant silver head! 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Wandering through Wallenstein Palace Garden was a very pleasant experience for me. This hidden park (believe me, you would easily pass it without entering its gate) is like a small oasis in the center of the city, located in a busy tram street but not overrun with tourists. You would find there a lot of Greek-style statues (representing mythological scenes), the resident peacocks, an impressive fountain, a big owl aviary, and the amazingly quirky wall I’ve mentioned above.

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I was unsure about adding John Lennon’s wall as a suggestion since it is becoming a tourist attraction, but I found its origin fascinating. It has been painted with John Lennon’s image and song lyrics and became a place for local people to visually complain about their government. It remains a symbol of freedom of expression and it’s always changing since locals and visitors like to leave their messages there.  

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Since this is the bridge that connects the Old Town with the Prague Castle, you are likely to take that path together with a lot of tourists. But take your time to notice all the statues along the way – something that most people don’t pay enough attention to and they are missing out. Many of the statues are over 300 years old and have really unusual details to admire. 

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While playing the game I started my route in Letná Park’s big green area and I found it a really relaxing place. In fact I liked it so much that I ended up returning there for the sunset. It’s for sure a pleasant area to sit and relax, but also offers unparalleled views of the city, overlooking the meandering Vltava. Also, I loved seeing the squirrels!

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Time to get playful!

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A Local’s Guide to Prague

[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row column_structure=”2_3,1_3″ admin_label=”City and GB Blurb” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” collapsed=”off” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”2_3″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_blurb admin_label=”Question 1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ header_level=”h5″ header_font=”Ubuntu|300|||||||” header_text_align=”left” header_line_height=”1.7em” body_font=”Ubuntu|300|||||||” body_text_align=”left” body_font_size=”19px” header_font_size_tablet=”” header_font_size_phone=”” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” body_font_size_tablet=”” body_font_size_phone=”16px” body_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” z_index_tablet=”500″ body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=”0px” global_colors_info=”{}”]Castles, bridges, churches and all kinds of colorful architecture, glorious parks, the most amazing river views and the best traditional food: that is what you can expect from your Prague visit!
[/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb admin_label=”Question 1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ header_level=”h5″ header_font=”Ubuntu|300|||||||” header_text_align=”left” header_font_size=”16px” header_line_height=”1.8em” body_font=”Ubuntu|300|||||||” body_text_align=”left” header_font_size_tablet=”” header_font_size_phone=”” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” z_index_tablet=”500″ body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=”0px” global_colors_info=”{}”]

This city’s engaging history is begging to be discovered and it’s glorious hideouts and maze-like streets are the perfect playground for hidden gem seekers that want to wander around from one place to the other while enjoying their surroundings.

Who better to guide you through such an amazing experience than an enthusiastic local? Introducing our awesome game builder…

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Despite not being born in Prague, Katechka fell in love with the city at a young age. Having lived in all three areas of Czech Republic, she’s sure that Prague holds a special place in her heart. After getting to know the most charming of side alleys, secret green spots and curious stories of the city, she decided to share them with our players.

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Hello, Katechka! Or actually… how do you greet a friend where you live?
As the sealess pirates, we say “Ahoj”!

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You’ve built an amazing game featuring breathtaking views and parks here Prague. How come you know all those incredible secret spots and fascinating local stories?
Although I live in Prague, I was not born and raised there. I had a chance to live in all three parts of the Czech Republic – Silesia, Moravia and Bohemia. I loved visiting Prague as a kid, as its history just calls for discovery. After getting to know many side streets, green hideouts and moments of Prague’s history, I decided I cannot keep them only for myself.

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As an urban treasure hunter, you probably keep on finding new hidden gems. What’s your most recent discovery in Prague?
I would have to say Invalidovna – the building served as a dormitory for war veterans and was inspired by the famous Les Invalides in Paris. Later, it held the army archives, which succumbed after the 2002 flood. This summer, it reopened for the public. There is a cafe with beer on tap. You can freely wander around accessible parts of the Invalidovna building.

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Yay! A surprise long weekend appears in your calendar and a couple of tickets to any European destination arrive in your mailbox… where do you go on an adventurous city break?
I have never been to Portugal. So taking
a city break in Lisbon sounds perfect to me and would be amazing getting to know the city. Yellow trams, here I come!

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Back to Prague. What’s your favourite meal of the day and where do you go to make that meal extra indulgent?
I lived for five years abroad. Although I’m back, I still have these cravings for svíčková. This traditional Czech meal is so hard to prepare that if you master it, you can call yourself a proper cook. It consists of slow-baked beef, root vegetable sauce and dumplings. The plate gets garnished with a slice of lemon, a spoon of cranberries and whipped cream. Yes, whipped cream. I know, bizarre!

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You speak so good about svíčková… that made us wonder where in Prague can we find the best one?
Hotel Imperial, for sure. A charmingly decorated Art Deco restaurant once frequented by Franz Kafka or Leoš Janáček. The kitchen is under the supervision of Zdeněk Pohlreich, Czechia’s Gordon Ramsay. They even give you extra sauce on the side. The price might shock you as it is not as expensive as one would have expected in such a pretty place. Give it a try.

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A group of friends are visiting in Prague; where should we take them to fall in love with the city?
Prague looks gorgeous when seen from the top. I would take them to some hill for the view – Vítkov, Petřín or Letná. Then, we would wander through the New World streets. Prague is a multi-layer city. If you want to understand its story, you need to bear this in mind. There are areas where layers and centuries overlap, but you can find streets with real treasures.

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And once the friends’ visit is over and we need some quiet and focused time to catch up with work, where do we go?
The Czech Republic has more public libraries than Spain or the United Kingdom. Most libraries in Prague have quiet areas which you can use to read, work or study. The prices are really affordable and you can even access online research databases. My favourite municipal library is at Mariánské náměstí, Vinohradská vodárna and Smíchov. (Photo by Guillaume Henrotte/Unsplash)

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What’s the most recent picture of Prague you took with your phone and what’s the story behind it?
My address used to be in Prague 6. I loved walking to the city centre through the stag moat of Prague Castle, reopened by president Václav Havel, after closure during communism times. After I returned from abroad, I was shocked this beautiful piece of nature, the calm oasis to help you avoid cars, is behind barb wire. It makes for an impressive picture, though!

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Yikes! We have just one photo left on a film in the camera… Where from do we snap a stunning view of your city?
Head to Petřín hill. The Prague views and parks game ends here for a reason.

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One last question, but no spoilers, please! What’s your favourite riddle on the trail you’ve built there?
Oh! My favourite riddle is about animals hiding within the walls of Prague Castle. It is quite a nut to crack 🙂

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